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Textile Design

Colours | Dyeing

Carried out at

MA Biodesign

Central Saint Martins

University of the Arts London

BA Printed Textiles &

Surface Pattern Design

Leeds Arts University

DSAA Textile Design


Conducted with 

Carolina Kyvik Ruiz

Eleonora Rombolá

Cassandra Quinn

Kit Ondaatje Rolls


MA Biodesign:

Carole Collet | Course Founder

Nancy Diniz | Course Leader 

Alice Taylor | Lecturer of Biology and Living Systems 

Shem Johnson | Grow Lab Specialist Technician 

BA Printed Textiles:

Tami Stewart | Course Leader

Caroline Pratt | Senior Lecturer 

Julie Hughes | Senior Lecturer 


DSAA Textile Design:

Marianne Bernecker | Course Founder-Leader

Laurent Schavey | Course Founder-Leader

Hervé Crespel | Course Founder-Leader 

Solange Thiry | Senior Lecturer 

Leeds, London  —  UK

Roubaix  —  France

  —  2020

Using natural dyes to remediate water pollution 

The use of synthetic dyes results in vibrant and cost-effective clothing with long-lasting colors. However, these dyes also give rise to certain issues. The dyeing process consumes a significant amount of water, and not all regions possess effective water purification methods to treat the water before it is released back into the environment. Consequently, wastewater generated from textile dyeing stands as a substantial global pollutant. Furthermore, textile dyeing wastewater exerts adverse effects on aquatic plant life due to the presence of substances in many dyes that inhibit photosynthesis, the essential process through which plants derive nutrients.


In light of these concerns, our project focuses on the utilization of natural dyes to minimize environmental impact. From the mordanting process to fabric selection and the choice of colorants, our decisions are centered around sustainability. In pursuit of this goal, we embarked on experiments involving diverse dyeing techniques to minimize water usage (such as eco-printing, direct dyeing, ice dyeing, waste extraction, and solar dyeing) while simultaneously creating an array of unique shades and patterns.

Total composition fabrics+waste.png
Waste types

Natural dyes from greenwaste, foodwaste, mineral and organic pigments | Fabrics: linen,  rPet Format: A4, 21 cm x 29,7 cm | Design © Marie Melcore, Kit Ondaatje Rolls, Eleonora Rombolá, Carolina Kyvik Ruiz, Cassandra Quinn | Photo © Kit Ondaatje Rolls, Eleonora Rombolá MA Biodesign, Central Saint Martins, UAL.

testing mordants

Natural pigments : madder, cochineal, logwood, weld Fabrics : silk Habotai, plain bleached cotton, wool delaine Mordants : without, iron, alum BA Printed Textiles & Surface Pattern Design, Leeds Arts University.


Shibori Fabrics: cotton canvas Format: 15 cm x 20 cm | DSAA Textile Design, E.S.AA.T.

Shibori Fabrics: cotton canvas Format: 2 m x 40 cm | DSAA Textile Design, E.S.AA.T.


Eco-print: Cabbage leaves and prunus on viscose and on silk Format : 1 m x 2 m | DSAA Textile Design, E.S.AA.T.

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